Showing posts with label metz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label metz. Show all posts

Sunday, January 16, 2011

The Long Way Home

We're home. Obviously.But I realize now that I never told the excruciating story of how, exactly our 18 hour trip itinerary turned into 3 days of travel.



After our cleaning spree and three hours of sleep the night before at ALOES, we managed to enjoy a incredibly relaxing and sleep-filled evening and night with our great friends Janice and Jeramy. It had been snowing pretty steadily for a few days and we were beginning to get worried about our impending voyage but were determined to stay positive.



Well, we were feeling positive until we flipped the page of our French phrase-a-day calendar to this eerie premonition of a phrase if I ever saw one.



And despite a night of even more snowfall, Jeramy sucked it up and drove us all the way to the Luxembourg airport (about 45 minutes without snow) on roads that looked like this or worse. Since France doesn't normally get nearly the snow we get here in the northeastern United States, they aren't in the habit of performing much winter maintenance.

We had checked the status of our flight online and although the Luxembourg airport's website showed hardly any delays, we came upon an entirely different situation when we arrived at the airport and checked in after only an hour or so in the car. We were told by the counter worker that not only was she unable to issue the boardin passes for our subsequent flights (something about Delta airlines not being in cooperation with Lux airport) but to top it off, our flight had been delayed an hour and a half. We knew this would cause problems when we made it to Paris since we would have to somehow manage to leave one terminal in Paris, make it to another terminal, get boarding passes, then get through security and to our flight all within 30 minutes. But there was no turning back at this point; if we wanted to get home, Paris was as good as anywhere. We then walked downstairs to the departures area to find that almost all flights going out of Luxembourg were delayed, some by 6 or 7 hours. It looked like everyone was feeling stranded. 

Our plane did leave at it's scheduled delayed time (which is much more than could be said for many other flights leaving Lux) and the flight went smoothly for how much snow had fallen the night before. Hearing others talk on the flight made us realize just how much mayhem the inclimate weather would likely cause; it seemed that the entire back half of the plane where we sat would be missing or had already missed their connecting flight in Paris. We would all be spending lots of time together in Charles de Gaulle whether we wanted to or not. 
We attempted to make to our gate upon arrival in Charles de Gaulle. We ran though the terminals then waited in line at the Delta ticketing desk for a good 15 minutes only to be told that even though our flight was technically through Delta, only the Air France ticketing desk could help us. So we ran down to the Air France desk to find ourselves in the longest and slowest moving line I have ever been in at an airport. It turned out that our arrival had corresponded with the closure of Heathrow airport in London and the giant line in front of us was made up of one or two planes worth of people trying to get a re-scheduled flight into an airport where no flights were scheduled. Michael waited in line while I tracked down a rogue Air France worker who agreed to check on the status of our flight since we may still have some hope of getting out. Unfortunately for us, that flight was the last Charles de Gaulle to Detroit flight to make it out without delays before the real delays started.

We stayed in line for awhile, hardly moving at all, when we started hearing security warnings over the loudspeaker pertaining to a unclaimed bag at the gate were we were all patiently waiting in line. After 5 or so announcements asking the owner of the bag to return and claim it, the swat team and military gunmen descended upon the area and pushed us all out of line and down the hallway. After 20 minutes or so of waiting, the barriers were finally taken down and there was a mad dash for the start of the line. Being young and agile, we managed to greatly increase our line place but it turned out to be useless because only minutes later we heard a rumor just before the announcement that we needed to move the entire line way down the hall to the last ticketing gate, which led to yet another mad dash. Despite our relatively good place in line we still waited around for at least 2 hours before making it to the front of the line where we were able to speak to an agent. Within 10 minutes we had been set up with a new flight itinerary for the next day, a dinner voucher and a voucher for a hotel with breakfast.



At dinner we started to feel closer to home already simply because of a glass of orange juice served with ice (!) and a straw (!).

After dinner we made our way towards our hotel (an Ibis, which is a very common French hotel). We got off of the airport tram and there it was! (Or so we though.) We waited in line there only to be told that we were at the wrong Ibis and we needed to go out to the shuttle stop to be taken to our Ibis on the outskirts of the outskirts of town. So we went, and we waited, and we waited. And eventually we started to hear rumors that the hotel shuttles had stopped because of the snow and that they *might* begin to run again if the roads are plowed. What?!? 

I went out to check the taxis but was told by other waiters that they had just had an altercation with a cab driver who refused to take anyone to hotels, so I turned on my heels and went back inside.
After a bit, Michael and I went back on the tram to the main terminal to speak with the Air France reps who assured us that a bus would be there soon. We were finally met by a large charter bus that must have been hired by the airline to shuttle us all out to the hotels. The ride rough, the roads were terrible and the driver spent most of the drive calling the powers that be on his radio to inform them that "les routes ne sont ni salés" (the roads are not salted), and this was unacceptable. But finally, we made it.



And it was lovely.



 And one last French styled breakfast was thoroughly enjoyed.



We left the next morning with the snow still coming down (in the same hired shuttle, the  normal ones had still not started up again).



And after 6 hours of delays, lots of worry, terminal changes, multiple goes through security and lots more worry, we finally were on the plane and in the air somewhere over the Atlantic. As you can see, Air France knows how to feed it's customers. We spent the 9 hour flight happily eating, drinking, watching Toy Story III and attempting to stay awake despite landing in Detroit when our bodies thought it was 3am. 

We touched down many hours after the Detroit international wing normally closes so instead of having roughly 30 customs agents to shuffle us through, we waited in line while 9 overtime agents struggled to handle two large planes full (roughly 600 people). We were then further questioned and checked because of some questionable items that we brought back (seeds, food).

Thankfully though, the Delta ticket desk in Detroit was prepared for our late arrival and as we walked toward the desk we were stopped by an agent at a table who asked our name and handed us our hotel voucher, food vouchers ($36 to spend in one night since our hotel had a continental breakfast) and our re-scheduled flight for the next day. And after re-checking our bags (they had to go through customs with us) we walked out to our waiting hotel shuttle and collapsed into our seats, just happy to be back on US soil.



Again, we had nice accomodations, much larger but not quite as sleek and modern as the Paris Ibis.



What a very flattering picture; thanks Michael for capturing this moment of washing my underwear out in the hotel sink.



 $30 worth of terrible, horrible, American take-out pizza and ribs. Don't get me wrong, it tasted wonderful but was hard on a digestion unaccustomed to American style take out. I'm fairly certain there was at least 5x the amount of cheese that we would have put on any Friday night pizza.

We slept soundly but only until about 5am when our internal clocks said "whoa, it's 11 and you're not up!?". We got to the airport early after our continental breakfast and after various de-icing and runway delays we finally got off the ground.

Now I will say that I am not the most calm of airplane riders and this flight did not do well for my nerves. There was no lack of turbulence and difficulty landing (we circled the runway multiple times) and to make matters worse, Michael and I were separated due to the lateness of our reservations so I had no one's hand to squeeze while it was all happening. 

But we finally made it down and made it home; and I couldn't have been happier.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Last Supper(s) and Cleaning House

As you all can I'm sure imagine, we didn't hold back on the delicious food in those precious last few days on the other side of the Atlantic.



The gourging started off with this extra old (that was seriously the name on the label) mimolette cheese, so old in fact that the woman at the counter asked if it was ok broken because it literally crumbled when she attempted to cut off a chunk. For reference, mimolette cheese is similar to gouda in it's aging.



Veal chops in mushroom sauce and braised endives made the dinner-time cut one evening. The recipe was taken from our new Paul Bocuse cookbook (purchased in French so I will be forced to remember something) all about cooking with fresh, market food.



As a special treat, I made a rare trip to the patisserie to pick up dessert (I know, I am a pastry chef and should be seeking out the spectacular French sweets but *gasp* I don't really like sweets very often). This particular treat is called the Paris-Metz (in honor of the new high-speed train line); it is a raspberry and citrus macaroon large enough for sharing. 



The next big dinner was a re-creation of a restaurant meal. I am realizing only now just how often I ordered smoked salmon while out to dinner. This dish was composed of some potato pancakes topped with an herbed crème fraîche and smokes salmon which we served with some delicious mâche salad that Megan and Joe had introduced us to a few days prior.

 

And so began the cleaning and cleaning and cleaning. It's amazing just how dirty a teeny tiny apartment can get while still appearing clean. We cleaned and scrubbed for hours our last day.

And then I painted and painted...I want to know who the brilliant person was that decided that decided to cover the dorm walls (including the kitchen??) with textured white walls that disintegrated if you tried to clean them?



Somewhere in there we took a break from cleaning to break into this fun little basket...

...full of some amazing oysters.

Michael let the newly purchased oyster knife and oyster shell get the best of him on this attempt.

But regardless of blood loss, the final product was a great mid-cleaning treat with one last bottle of Champagne.



And finally, the next morning, after lots and lots work while the fluffy white stuff fell outside (which would prove problematic the next day), we finished cleaning. It looked creepy.

Monday, December 6, 2010

It's Beginning to Look...

 You guessed it: A lot like Christmas!



Since the French don't have that pesky Thanksgiving holding back Christmas decorations, we got an early start (this coincided with the Thanksgiving decorating) on bringing that festive spirit to the GTL lounge. Michael, Katrina and Peter make sure the tree was sparkling and blinking (much to my chagrin, lights are never static over here, always blinking).



These XL handmade snowflakes that Amanda is holding eventually hung from the ceiling mostly thanks to Francis, the GTL maintenance man and his XL ladder.



 As is customary this time of year, we have been hitting up the local Christmas markets in town, soaking in all the festive smells and sights but mostly, the food and vin chaud (hot, mulled wine).




 The indoor decoration stand was jam-packed with festive folks looking to spruce up their homes.



And much to our surprise, Place de la République, which was largely under construction last year has been miraculously transformed with a veritable winter wonderland complete with a rotating tree ride (which was present last year but placed in the middle of a street during the construction) a giant ferris wheel and an ice skating rink.



Warm and sugary churros and hot wine. Can life be any better?


The next week it snowed like mad, quite literally shutting down all operations in Metz. I have sadly come to realize now that I have a car here in this weather that not only are sidewalks never shoveled, but only main roads are ever plowed, leading to a slippery trip to teach English on Tuesday.


 What else to do but go to the markets again?



 Oops...forgot to rotate this picture! Here I am though, cracking open one of the most expensive confections we've found here: 8 candied chestnuts (marrons glacés) for a whopping 10.99€ (~ $15)! Mostly though, I liked the tin and totally plan to bring it back. I'll take a picture of it sometime soon.



Mmmm, glorious, scrumptious, candied goodness

I'm gonna miss Christmas in France.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Field Trip #4: le Centre Pompidou

In it's heyday (if the term "heyday" can even stretch for almost 2000 years) Metz was a very important city. It is located smack-dab in the middle of Europe at, like Pittsburgh, the confluence of two rivers making it both a strong hold both in trade and military. But also like Pittsburgh, as the end of the industrial time ended, the lull began and it has been a bit of a struggle to keep the city relevant, at least to non-messins (people from Metz).

Enter the Centre Pompidou - Metz, our new branch of the famous Parisien modern art museum which was completed and opened this past May. The idea behind this museum branch (and the corresponding TGV (high speed) train line directly from Paris to Metz) was and is to bring more notice and more traffic to the area; to bring back to life what was once a bustling and popular city, which we are all for. As if I haven't mentioned enough in this blog what a fantastically overlooked area of France we live in and our fingers are crossed that the Centre Pompidou-Metz is just it needs to spring up from the metaphorical ashes.



Here it is in all of it's Chinese hat styled glory. The building was designed as a team effort by Shigeru Ban (Japanese) and Jean de Gastines (French).


In all the roof line is made up of 16 kilometers of laminated timber covered by a thin fiberglass layer which has been coated in Teflon.

Our wonderful (partially pictured) English speaking tour guide along with our French teacher Madame Serafin gave a wonderful tour of the facility.

The window provides an optical illusion making the cathedral seem much closer than it is in reality.

This was one of my favorites, it feels like you are looking through fog (or like I couldn't hold the camera still).

On this floor of the museum one wall held the masterpieces while the opposing wall displayed the "making of the masterpiece utilizing photos and even videos of the artists whilst at work.

A room of Laurel leaves

The enormity of some of the pieces was obviously striking; notice Michael looking up in the bottom right hand corner.

Such a well designed museum -- even the hallways become art. I am in the center-left of the photo looking up at the mirrors on the ceiling.





In conclusion: come, visit.
If you are ever in Paris, certainly check out the Centre Pompidou (which we still need to see). But if you have extra time in Paris, take the 1.5 hour high speed train to Metz. Visit the town. Visit the Museum. You won't be sorry. (Especially if you are under 26, which means you are admitted into the museum for free!)

Monday, October 4, 2010

la Nuit Blanche

or "the White Night" is an annual night time festival held in Metz as a celebration of the arts. Of course, larger cities all across Europe celebrate this as well, sometimes with expositions lasting all the way through the night but a combination of a sleepy town (with gallery closing times around 1) and some yucky rain sent most people scurrying home early. Most of the art (this year at least) was modern or conceptual but all very interesting and inventive.

Most of all, we just enjoyed seeing our beautiful town lit with beautiful lights and filled with art-loving people.


temple neuf (one of the few protestant churches) all lit up

du pavot à la rose -- poppy rose installation

each boat was filled with rose petals

in the "bubble island" section they had large, colorful balloons everwhere

looking up in abbaye saint-vincent


Michael managed to get a video clip of a modern music concert that we stumbled into taking place in the previously pictured abbaye saint-vincent. the video features me staring at the incredible vaulted ceiling like a goof along with our friends Anna and Seth and a bit of music just to give you an idea of what an experience it is to hear a modern music concert in a 1000 year old church. sorry about the thumping, by the way, i have no idea what it is.


mermaid tails hanging from trees

temple neuf and cathédral saint-étienne

temple neuf in the rain

oh, and Michael finished my haircut earlier that day. i'm fairly certain tracy (my hairdresser back home) will say: "what the hell did you do??" but he cut it exactly how i instructed even if he was uneasy, and i love it; that's all that counts, right?

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Keeping Busy

 Fall is my favorite time of year. I love the crisp air, the changing leaves and the squalls of random rain, although combined with this region's propensity towards tropical storm force winds and dumping rain, at times it can be a bit depressing. Compounding the problem is the fact that this is our last season in Metz. We are now down to 12 weeks, or 2.5 months, or 1/7 of our time in Metz remaining and I am starting to freak out a bit. My brain is flipping between being sad to leave and happy to go home. I miss my family and friends in the US more than I dare to think about but at the same time, Metz is our home. We have friend, even "family" here; we have our favorite stores, our favorite picnic places and it is going to be terribly difficult to leave. My one consolation is that we are just a part of a mass Metz exodus. I feel badly for those we are leaving behind but roughly half of our friends are making their way back home (wherever that may be) within a few months of one another so although we will be scattered, we are all experiencing the same Metz inspired separation anxiety. I can only hope that my feelings on the subject will even out as things back home become more concrete with jobs, etc. As of right now all we have is a plane ticket (which we don't even physically have...stupid internet age) for the 18th of December to fly into Corning/Elmira Regional Airport. In either case, I (we) will survive and make the most of the transition, I know I will. But in the meantime we are making sure to make the most of the remaining time we have with visits from both friends and my parents (who come in one month!), with a possible trip to England, a mini trip to Saarbrüken, la Nuit Blanche, and food, lots and lots of food.


preparation for a back-home, farm house favorite

fried green tomatoes!

we made Manas something he had been desperately missing, paneer curry

poulet à la provençale ...this one's coming back with us!

150 crêpes made for a GTL game night; this one kept me busy

our lovely train station, snapped from the bus

the winds and the rains have descended which means that fall is upon us which translates into chili...yum! the recipe can be found at a my friend Lili's blog; it is by far the best vegetarian chili I've had.

I got bored of my mostly one length hair today and cut some heavy, side bangs. I'm becoming more and more French in my style and bangs only add to that, they're all the rage here. I'll be sure to take a better picture once I get Michael to trim up my ends.