Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Monday, October 18, 2010

what to write & Field Trip # 4: Fort de Queuleu

I never considered myself much of a writer. I've never before experienced writer's block. I suppose there is a first time for everything. I've wanted to write this past week but could never bring myself to. I also had the duel problem of not being able to get Michael off of his computer and not being able to pull myself away from knitting Michael's sweater/watching an embarrassing tv show; the two activities are one to me and they tend to become addictive. But Michael is in class now and then he will be working on research until our afternoon class and I have already watched 3 embarrassing episodes today and am 2/5 of the way down Michael's sweater's sleeve. I think it's time to write.

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Fort de Queuleu



You may vaguely remember Fort de Queuleu from this earlier post. Can I just interrupt myself right here and  say that those old blog posts embarrassing -- not that I've ever been confident in writing. Anyway, reading that old post I can't help but remember how strange it seemed to me that such a seemingly historically significant place, an interrogation camp where the Nazis held prisoners just down the road from our dorms, be turned into a fitness course. At the time, over a year ago, it seemed almost blasphemous to hide the story of the fort in that way. Looking back over our time here though, my feelings on the subject have softened. I still can't say I'm completely comfortable running a lap or two around the camp (not that I could run that far if I tried) but I think I get it in some vague way.

Part of the problem is funding; money's always a problem though, right? Everywhere you look, every corner you turn there is another WWII site, another Roman ruin. We don't have the problem to such an extent in the US because of our comparatively shorter and less....extensive history, but with so many historical sites, funding will eventually run out and only so many places will be preserved.

The other problem is the memory, the memory of a scarred region. In many ways, I get the feeling that people want to forget. They want to forget that once again, France collapsed under the pressure of Germany.  They don't want to think about the people tortured and killed right across the street from their house. And that feeling is completely understandable. But some wanted, some needed to remember. And the volunteers that are now running the association that keeps the fort up and safe (and doing so for free, taking care of the funding issue) are those that needed to remember because you see, the association was formed by those who lived through the terror of imprisonment at Fort de Queuleu, they lived through the interrogation, were sent to a concentration camp and lived to return. They needed to remember because they couldn't forget. Their families and friends have carried on the memory after them.

As I mentioned before, the construction of Fort de Queuleu began 1867 when the Minister of War acquired 4 pieces of land surrounding Metz in order to build fortifications around the city in anticipation of the war with Prussia that was seeming more and more likely. Construction was continued by the French up until Metz was annexed by Prussia (Germany) during the Franco-Prussian war in 1870. The treaty of Frankfurt made Metz a Germany city in 1871 and construction of the fort was continued by the Germans from that time on. They named the fort Goeben after the Prussian general who was best known for winning the battle of Spicheren, the first victory of the Prussian army over the Moselle region (our region). In 1918 France re-entered Metz and after the treaty of Versailles in 1919, Metz was officially returned to France. For the most part, the fort lay dormant until WWII.

In 1943 Metz was once again Annexed by Germany and fort de Queuleu was turned into a top secret interrogation camp where members of the French resistance (including active rebels such as Joseph Derhan, those French people who simply didn't want to be forced to speak German and everyone in between) were tortured and interrogated before being sent to a concentration camp (most often to Natzweiler-Struthof, which was the only concentration camp within France's borders). It is thought that 1500-1800 people went through the camp, 36 were killed and 4 escaped through a ventilation shaft before American troops began to advance on Metz in 1944 at which time the prisoners were forced to march to the concentration camp. Those interned there called it "Hell of Queuleu" (Enfer de Queuleu).

SS Sonderlager feste Goben, Fort de Queuleu casemate "A" camp de concentration 1943-1944

The Entrance

Never That or Never Again or just Never


"c'est en ce lieu que 1800 patriotes ont ete veux bandes pieds et mains lies durant des jourd des semaines des mois assis sans bouger sans parler maintenus en prevention avant d'etre transferes dans les camps de concentration     
                   
ici point de chambre a gaz de crematoire un hauptscharfukrer hempen commandant ce lieu suffisait condamne a mort par le tribunal militaire de metz le 10.4.51 pour le meurtre de 36 patrioted on le retrouvera plus tard officier de police a Oldenbourg R.F.A."

after very very rough translation:

"it was here that 1800 Patriots were kept with eyes, feet and hands bound for days weeks months left alone without moving or speaking before being transferred to concentration camps
here no gas chamber of crematorium hauptscharfukrer a hempen (something German, couldn't translate) this place's  commander was sentenced to death by a military court in Metz on 4/10/1951 for the murder of 36 patriotes he was later found, the police officer Oldenburg Germany"
Prisoners were forced to stand with their arms raised for hours before being given their number (in German) which they had to remember lest they be beaten.
The interrogation room
A solitary confinement room for the "really bad" ones
The normal chamber. The prisoners were made to sit with blindfolds on these benches with their backs straight against the bed for hours every day.
Where 4 managed to escape; the last remaining of these 4 men passed away just last year.
The prisoners were bathed here by having buckets of freezing cold water thrown on them. The only bathed once when they arrived and never after, some going almost a year in without washing int he same clothes they were brought in.
Where they used the bathroom, it was right in the middle of the communal bedroom.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Field Trip #3: Château de Malbrouck et Sierck-les-Bains

From the Roman times covered in our last field trip, we now skip the Middle ages entirely and come to the Rennaissance period (literally meaning re-birth in French). I'm not sure the class was planned with the giant period jump but we'll work with it.

Château de Malbrouck

Behold! The Castle of Malbrouck, reconstructed, of course.
Interestingly enough, the name of the Château is taken from the Duke John Churchill (yes, distant relative of Winston) of Malbrouck who was immortalized in a song we all know well: "For he's a jolly good fellow" although the original lyrics, "Marlbrough s'en va-t-en guerre" (Malbrouck has gone to war) are more telling of the connection. 


The original Château was built and completed in the year 1434. It was used through the years (although the French wikipedia page doesn't completely specify what for) and in 1793 was sold as national property. It was run down from time and various lootings by the time it was classified as a Historic Monument in 1930. In 1975 it was sold through the General Council of the Moselle to the Weiter family who in turn, worked to rebuild it (using only the ancient methods originally used). Reconstruction was completed in 1999. 






Who knew they would have such a lovely view of the Cattenom Nuclear Power Plant?




the courtyard








the view from the top





Sierck-les-Bains
the view from the top (most of the following information is taken from a pamphlet given during the visit)
Sierck-les-Bains is a fortified castle dating back to the 11th century. The outer walls, blockhouses, towers, underground passages and protective side bastions ("A bastion is a structure projecting outward from the main enclosure of a fortification, situated in both corners of a straight wall (termed curtain), facilitating active defence against assaulting troops" -- thanks Google, didn't know that one) are still intact. The castle, where the Duke resided, was destroyed in 1643. 

The castle was built on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Moselle river valley and there are some that believe it was built on the ruins of a Gallo-roman mansion. The location of the castle was strategically chosen for it's ability to defend the Rhine road that ran through the Moselle valley from the Empires of France and Burgundy (the area was under the rule of the Germanic Empire at the time).
The castle belonged to the Dukes of Lorraine from the 11th century until the 17th century as a favorite residence. 

In 1643 the castle was besieged by the Duke of Enghein and only at that time did the Duke of Lorraine give up the castle and town to France. In 1673 Louvois, a minister of King Louis XIV decided to tear down the living quarters and half of the towers in accordance with the treaty of Vincennes. 

In 1705 the fortifications were again used by the Duke of Malbrouck when he was forced to retreat from Trier, Germany.
In 1713 the fort was demolished yet again in accordance with the treaty of Utrecht. 

In 1773 the stronhold was restore and equipped with powder magazines and a quartermaster's store. 

Before the French Revolution, the cannons and cannonballs were removed and from 1814 on it belonged to the fortifications of the Thionville area and was definitively put into disuse in 1866 when it officially became an official part of the town of Sierck-les-Bains

Wow, what a crazy history. And now, for a few more pictures:


The Moselle River

A restored catapult, apparently similar to one Michael and Dan tried to build in high school, only smaller

Our visit coincided with a mountain bike race. We couldn't help but feel that Shannon (and Adrienne) should  have been there.  They rode through the streets and on even down the stairs of the hillside town then up and around the fort.

a bad picture of the torture chamber...looks lovely, right?

this does look lovely, oh the bread I could bake with this oven!

stair, stairs...

everywhere stairs, dark and damp stairs, it's a miracle we didn't break our necks

winnie-the-poo as a knight, anyone else see it?

a restored cannon

You can see more pictures of our various field trips by clicking HERE.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Field Trip #2: Bliesbruck and Reinheim


For our Metz culture class with the ever comical Madame Serafin last week we visited the European Archaeological Park in between the French town of Bliesbruck and the German town of Reinheim. The Gallo-Roman town (constructed between the first and fourth century AD) is located on the French side while the Roman Villa (thought to belong to a Celtic Princess whose tomb is located near the villa remains) is located on the German side of the border. As you can imagine, this leads to some interesting contrasts in how the digging is gone about.

Regardless though, it was a very interesting day. We took a guided tour of the Gallo-Roman town with a very excited archeologist. She pointed out stoves, potters' wheels, trash receptacles (the Romans knew how to live!), streets and public squares and at the end of the tour we got to visit one of the most impressive examples of roman ingenuity, the public bath house. After the French-side visit we walked the quick jaunt across the border to see the built-up remains of the villa, the tomb, and to walk a bit through the cute German village of Reinheim. Admittedly though, we were more intrigued by a flock of sheep.

Since blogger is being a pain in the a** and not allowing me to upload photos at the moment, a facebook album will have to suffice. You can click HERE to view the photos; you'll just have to click through the Robert Schuman pictures first.

We are off for the weekend to Germany! Somehow we managed to get a bed in large sleeping tents during Oktoberfest in Germany so we will hopefully be spending our weekend with large mugs of beer and pig knuckles.

À Bientôt!

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Field Trip # 1: the Father of Europe

Michael and I are kind of, sort of, somehow taking a class at GTL entitled "Metz: Gateway to Understanding Europe"; essentially, we sit in on the class, we don't do any of the required work, and we get to go on field trips, many, many field trips for free. This is the first year that GTL is offering this class and they want to make sure it works, they want feedback, reviews, so even though we are not undergraduate students (or a student at all in my case), we get to tag along. We have had one lecture so far (there are only 3 or 4 actual lectures all year) and have gone on one field trip to visit the Robert Schuman house.

Robert Schuman, as you must expect, led a very interesting life. I'll give you a brief overview but if you would like to know more you can click on his name to read the wikipedia entry.

He was born in Luxembourg into very strange origins: his mother was Luxembourgish and his father was French (from Metz) but at the time of his birth, Metz had been occupied by Germany, giving both he and his father German citizenship.

He was educated as a lawyer and spent his life practicing law, then moving into politics where he proved himself to be an "independent political thinker and activist". His political career was spent as a reformist Minister of Finance, a Foreign Minister, and twice, Prime Minister. However, it was during his later days as Foreign Minister that he dreamed up what has now become the European Union.



Our hope is that Germany will commit itself on a road that will allow it to find again its place in the community of free nations, commencing with that European Community of which the Council of Europe is a herald.
Robert Schuman, speaking at the United Nations, 23 September 1949



In 1951, when his dream became reality the original "union" was made up of 6 countries (France, Germany, Italy, Belgium and  the Netherlands) and was primarily a trade union called the European Coal and Steel Community. Today the European Union includes 27 countries with 2 more that will most likely soon join the ranks, it's own communal economy, and even currency.

But the really amazing thing about Robert Schuman is that despite the high ranking position, the large salary, and the prestige, he still managed to live an extremely modest lifestyle in a little house in the beautiful hillside town of Scy-Chazelles just outside of Metz for nearly 30 years.


I didn't manage to get my own picture of the outside, this is another from Wikipedia

Most of the tour consisted of me saying "I want that"...what can I say, I have a thing of old stuff and small houses.


the dining room where Schuman hosted any number of foreign dignitaries


the kitchen table

The office where he dreamed up the European Union while playing the piano...Ok, I may have made that combo up

Amongst other things, he was a collector of autographs including Harry Truman's

The Father of Europe slept in a twin bed

Well, until he got old and sick and moved down to a double bed in the room next to the cold cellar; it smelled like apples

A replica of his car

Tomato plants in the food garden made me long for a piece of land back home and lots of help from my dad

Just across the street from the house was this fortified church where he and his housekeeper spent hours daily in worship (not my picture, Wikipedia's)


Inside the tiny church


Lies the Father of Europe's final resting place

To view a more complete photo album, please click here.

And in other news:
We went on another field trip to a Roman Archeological Dig today and visit some castles(?) tomorrow, so stay tuned to more exploration compliments of GTL.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Remembering WWII part III

Normandy

Longues-sur-Mer Battery 

The Longues-sur-Mer battery was a World War II artillery battery constructed by the Wehrmacht near the French village of Longues-sur-Mer in Normandy. It formed a part of Germany's Atlantic Wall coastal fortifications.

The battery was completed by April 1944.[1]. Although constructed and manned initially by the Kriegsmarine, the battery was later transferred to the German army.[2] The site consisted of four 150-mm navy guns, each protected by a large concrete casemate, a command post, shelters for personnel and ammunition, and several defensive machine-gun emplacements. source


Just one of the massive German guns


The observation shelter that overlooked the beach, it looked remarkably like those in Saving Private Ryan.


The German's view of the ocean on a rainy, misty day


All four guns in the distance



Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial

Located on the bluff above Omaha Beach, the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial holds the graves of 9,386 American soldiers who lost their lives fighting in WWII and one soldier from WWI (don't know where he was hiding out).









Omaha Beach from the cemetery








Spirit of American Youth


Military Operations on the Beaches of Normandy


Looking towards the chapel



Omaha Beach


 Les Braves


 



Walking on the same sand
Touching the same water

Experiencing off of this cannot help but remind me to be grateful each and every day that both my Grandfather and Michael's Grandfather made it back safely. Far too many weren't so lucky.