Showing posts with label germany. Show all posts
Showing posts with label germany. Show all posts

Monday, October 18, 2010

what to write & Field Trip # 4: Fort de Queuleu

I never considered myself much of a writer. I've never before experienced writer's block. I suppose there is a first time for everything. I've wanted to write this past week but could never bring myself to. I also had the duel problem of not being able to get Michael off of his computer and not being able to pull myself away from knitting Michael's sweater/watching an embarrassing tv show; the two activities are one to me and they tend to become addictive. But Michael is in class now and then he will be working on research until our afternoon class and I have already watched 3 embarrassing episodes today and am 2/5 of the way down Michael's sweater's sleeve. I think it's time to write.

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Fort de Queuleu



You may vaguely remember Fort de Queuleu from this earlier post. Can I just interrupt myself right here and  say that those old blog posts embarrassing -- not that I've ever been confident in writing. Anyway, reading that old post I can't help but remember how strange it seemed to me that such a seemingly historically significant place, an interrogation camp where the Nazis held prisoners just down the road from our dorms, be turned into a fitness course. At the time, over a year ago, it seemed almost blasphemous to hide the story of the fort in that way. Looking back over our time here though, my feelings on the subject have softened. I still can't say I'm completely comfortable running a lap or two around the camp (not that I could run that far if I tried) but I think I get it in some vague way.

Part of the problem is funding; money's always a problem though, right? Everywhere you look, every corner you turn there is another WWII site, another Roman ruin. We don't have the problem to such an extent in the US because of our comparatively shorter and less....extensive history, but with so many historical sites, funding will eventually run out and only so many places will be preserved.

The other problem is the memory, the memory of a scarred region. In many ways, I get the feeling that people want to forget. They want to forget that once again, France collapsed under the pressure of Germany.  They don't want to think about the people tortured and killed right across the street from their house. And that feeling is completely understandable. But some wanted, some needed to remember. And the volunteers that are now running the association that keeps the fort up and safe (and doing so for free, taking care of the funding issue) are those that needed to remember because you see, the association was formed by those who lived through the terror of imprisonment at Fort de Queuleu, they lived through the interrogation, were sent to a concentration camp and lived to return. They needed to remember because they couldn't forget. Their families and friends have carried on the memory after them.

As I mentioned before, the construction of Fort de Queuleu began 1867 when the Minister of War acquired 4 pieces of land surrounding Metz in order to build fortifications around the city in anticipation of the war with Prussia that was seeming more and more likely. Construction was continued by the French up until Metz was annexed by Prussia (Germany) during the Franco-Prussian war in 1870. The treaty of Frankfurt made Metz a Germany city in 1871 and construction of the fort was continued by the Germans from that time on. They named the fort Goeben after the Prussian general who was best known for winning the battle of Spicheren, the first victory of the Prussian army over the Moselle region (our region). In 1918 France re-entered Metz and after the treaty of Versailles in 1919, Metz was officially returned to France. For the most part, the fort lay dormant until WWII.

In 1943 Metz was once again Annexed by Germany and fort de Queuleu was turned into a top secret interrogation camp where members of the French resistance (including active rebels such as Joseph Derhan, those French people who simply didn't want to be forced to speak German and everyone in between) were tortured and interrogated before being sent to a concentration camp (most often to Natzweiler-Struthof, which was the only concentration camp within France's borders). It is thought that 1500-1800 people went through the camp, 36 were killed and 4 escaped through a ventilation shaft before American troops began to advance on Metz in 1944 at which time the prisoners were forced to march to the concentration camp. Those interned there called it "Hell of Queuleu" (Enfer de Queuleu).

SS Sonderlager feste Goben, Fort de Queuleu casemate "A" camp de concentration 1943-1944

The Entrance

Never That or Never Again or just Never


"c'est en ce lieu que 1800 patriotes ont ete veux bandes pieds et mains lies durant des jourd des semaines des mois assis sans bouger sans parler maintenus en prevention avant d'etre transferes dans les camps de concentration     
                   
ici point de chambre a gaz de crematoire un hauptscharfukrer hempen commandant ce lieu suffisait condamne a mort par le tribunal militaire de metz le 10.4.51 pour le meurtre de 36 patrioted on le retrouvera plus tard officier de police a Oldenbourg R.F.A."

after very very rough translation:

"it was here that 1800 Patriots were kept with eyes, feet and hands bound for days weeks months left alone without moving or speaking before being transferred to concentration camps
here no gas chamber of crematorium hauptscharfukrer a hempen (something German, couldn't translate) this place's  commander was sentenced to death by a military court in Metz on 4/10/1951 for the murder of 36 patriotes he was later found, the police officer Oldenburg Germany"
Prisoners were forced to stand with their arms raised for hours before being given their number (in German) which they had to remember lest they be beaten.
The interrogation room
A solitary confinement room for the "really bad" ones
The normal chamber. The prisoners were made to sit with blindfolds on these benches with their backs straight against the bed for hours every day.
Where 4 managed to escape; the last remaining of these 4 men passed away just last year.
The prisoners were bathed here by having buckets of freezing cold water thrown on them. The only bathed once when they arrived and never after, some going almost a year in without washing int he same clothes they were brought in.
Where they used the bathroom, it was right in the middle of the communal bedroom.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Field Trip #3: Château de Malbrouck et Sierck-les-Bains

From the Roman times covered in our last field trip, we now skip the Middle ages entirely and come to the Rennaissance period (literally meaning re-birth in French). I'm not sure the class was planned with the giant period jump but we'll work with it.

Château de Malbrouck

Behold! The Castle of Malbrouck, reconstructed, of course.
Interestingly enough, the name of the Château is taken from the Duke John Churchill (yes, distant relative of Winston) of Malbrouck who was immortalized in a song we all know well: "For he's a jolly good fellow" although the original lyrics, "Marlbrough s'en va-t-en guerre" (Malbrouck has gone to war) are more telling of the connection. 


The original Château was built and completed in the year 1434. It was used through the years (although the French wikipedia page doesn't completely specify what for) and in 1793 was sold as national property. It was run down from time and various lootings by the time it was classified as a Historic Monument in 1930. In 1975 it was sold through the General Council of the Moselle to the Weiter family who in turn, worked to rebuild it (using only the ancient methods originally used). Reconstruction was completed in 1999. 






Who knew they would have such a lovely view of the Cattenom Nuclear Power Plant?




the courtyard








the view from the top





Sierck-les-Bains
the view from the top (most of the following information is taken from a pamphlet given during the visit)
Sierck-les-Bains is a fortified castle dating back to the 11th century. The outer walls, blockhouses, towers, underground passages and protective side bastions ("A bastion is a structure projecting outward from the main enclosure of a fortification, situated in both corners of a straight wall (termed curtain), facilitating active defence against assaulting troops" -- thanks Google, didn't know that one) are still intact. The castle, where the Duke resided, was destroyed in 1643. 

The castle was built on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Moselle river valley and there are some that believe it was built on the ruins of a Gallo-roman mansion. The location of the castle was strategically chosen for it's ability to defend the Rhine road that ran through the Moselle valley from the Empires of France and Burgundy (the area was under the rule of the Germanic Empire at the time).
The castle belonged to the Dukes of Lorraine from the 11th century until the 17th century as a favorite residence. 

In 1643 the castle was besieged by the Duke of Enghein and only at that time did the Duke of Lorraine give up the castle and town to France. In 1673 Louvois, a minister of King Louis XIV decided to tear down the living quarters and half of the towers in accordance with the treaty of Vincennes. 

In 1705 the fortifications were again used by the Duke of Malbrouck when he was forced to retreat from Trier, Germany.
In 1713 the fort was demolished yet again in accordance with the treaty of Utrecht. 

In 1773 the stronhold was restore and equipped with powder magazines and a quartermaster's store. 

Before the French Revolution, the cannons and cannonballs were removed and from 1814 on it belonged to the fortifications of the Thionville area and was definitively put into disuse in 1866 when it officially became an official part of the town of Sierck-les-Bains

Wow, what a crazy history. And now, for a few more pictures:


The Moselle River

A restored catapult, apparently similar to one Michael and Dan tried to build in high school, only smaller

Our visit coincided with a mountain bike race. We couldn't help but feel that Shannon (and Adrienne) should  have been there.  They rode through the streets and on even down the stairs of the hillside town then up and around the fort.

a bad picture of the torture chamber...looks lovely, right?

this does look lovely, oh the bread I could bake with this oven!

stair, stairs...

everywhere stairs, dark and damp stairs, it's a miracle we didn't break our necks

winnie-the-poo as a knight, anyone else see it?

a restored cannon

You can see more pictures of our various field trips by clicking HERE.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Oktoberfest and the Motherland

*Wow, 13 posts in one month! Surely this is a record. I don't expect it to slow down any time soon though; so much yet to do in so little time.*

Scratch that, this post was meant to go up 3 days ago but alas, blogger and I have been arguing over whether or not it's going to let me post my pictures, so far, blogger has been the victor but not today.

We intended last year to go to Oktoberfest but little did we know that Oktoberfest actually is primarily in September. It ends the first Sunday in October. So, by the time we realized what was going on last year, the festival was practically over. Really, it was all for the best though since we would have been going by train last year which would probably have meant being suck in Munich for a whole weekend. Not that Munich isn't a beautiful city and all but it is a bit crazed come Oktoberfest (6 million people visited last year!) and on this trip we established that despite our exploration into the world of wines, spirits, and beer this past year, we are hopeless lightweights, so spending the whole weekend at the festival would have been pointless.

Thankfully, this year we have our lovely Lune Rousse to get around with, which meant that after deciding that we had had our fill of beer and crowds, we were able to take off and visit the alpine portion of Michael's ancestral homeland, Bavaria.

Welcome (or Willkommen, rather) to Oktoberfest!
and welcome to the Hofbräu "tent" (really, how do they get away with calling these things "tents?)

All of these people were drinking liters of beer at 10am

All of those people included us

We sobered up with a beautiful view of the Bavaria statue which was commissioned by Ludwig I, grandfather to crazy Ludwig II whom we will hear about later. The statue is massive though, thought to be a technological masterpiece at the time it was built (between 1844 and 1850)

A live carousel, how cool!

We always feel so healthy after Germany trips.


Does this look familiar to anyone?

Munich's New Town Hall -- we missed the clock performance but were able to enjoy the beautiful building with the cascading flowers. Nearly every house in Bavaria was covered in cascading flowers.

Another Hofbräu establishment, this time the beer hall for dinner.

We finally sober up and it's time for another liter for Michael at least, I had a half liter (which is still huge compared to tiny French beer bottles).

Our German heritage may not have presented itself in the beer tolerance category, but when it comes to food we are German through and through. I had a crispy pork knuckle (at which the older German man across the table laughed and laughed...I guess he's never seen a small girl eat so much) while Michael had a slice of roast pork. We both had some deliciously sticky potato dumplings and sauerkraut on the side.

The rain set in after dinner so after heading back to our tent for some warmer clothes, we went back out to enjoy the Oktoberfest night scene.






And what is Oktoberfest without spiced (if slightly soggy) almonds? Don't listen to me, I just made the correlation up.

The next morning we packed up and left our interesting accommodations (we slept in bunk beds in a white tent on the right)

And took off for a sometimes quaint (see above) and sometimes breathtaking (see below) drive on the Deutsche Alpenstraße (German Alpine Road).


Lune Rousse was a champ,

those S-curves are nothing to laugh at!

Can you imagine waking up to that?

We went a little crazy at a German grocery store. There is a picture of everything at home later but these delicious caraway meat sticks didn't make it anywhere near Metz.
Inside these walls is one of the most ridiculously ornate Rococo styled churches I have ever seen (the only one I've ever seen, really).

The Wies church was erected to house the statue of Jesus (figure of the Scourged Savior) when it was noticed to be crying and pilgrims began to flock in hoards to be in its presence. There are 3 houses in the town. I kid you not.
Ludwig II grew up in this castle, it looks perfectly adequate to me.


Apparently he didn't think so, he had this castle build next door. It's called Neuschwanstein and was later used by Disney as the model for the Sleeping Beauty castle. He only got halfway though the construction however (draining the family money along the way) before the other Bavarian aristocrats had him deemed clinically insane, thus stripping him of his rule. A few days later he and his doctor were found dead, drowned in a lake.


On our way home we happened to drive by the tallest church in the world located in Ulm, Germany.

Evaluation of our German purchases: nut crunch cereal, nestle cinnamon toast crunch knockoff, some dark beers (dunkels) for stew, english muffins, a 6-pack of hefeweizen, pickles that were consumed en-route, blood orange juice (also previously consumed), a mix for those potato dumplings, sauerkraut, sausages, beef (also for stew), sweet mustard and spätzle

And the resulting beef-beef stew with potato dumplings


Oh, and you can check out the rest of the pictures by clicking HERE.